We got to our hotel, the Primi Oxford House in Greenpoint, around 5:30pm and had just enough energy to wander a block and a half to stumble upon the neighborhood favorite, Manos. We filled our bellies with decadent food and a glass too many of wine (promising to hike Table Mountain the next day). Instead, we ended up sleeping in until noon, the slow rhythm of rain keeping us under the covers. So far, it seems to rain about every other day in Cape Town.
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| Highly recommended hotel in centrally located Greenpoint. |
THE V&A WATERFRONT
Saturday afternoon brought exploring the V&A Waterfront (think the Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco, with San Francisco weather, as well). Of course I bought a CD from the first group of street performers we saw for ZAR 100 (about $15). I have no way to play it, but I don’t mind carrying it around for 3 months for the surprise when we get back home. Having about all we needed of the waterfront, we took a stroll through the City Center (think downtown LA on a weekend; empty).
We ended the evening at Long Street. Anyone planning to visit Cape Town should plan to SKIP IT…. With the exception of Julep, which we found tucked away in a little alley behind the Long Street Café. Finished with Long Street, we (unintentionally) hit some gay bars near our hotel in the Greenpoint and ended up staying up waaay too late with some new friends, Avier & Janine.
Sunday we did Nothing. Literally nothing. All day
ROBBEN ISLAND
On our fourth day, we hit the city early, determined to make up for our “wasted” Sunday. (It wasn’t wasted at all, actually, we had a lot of fun doing nothing together and laughing a lot!) We thought it time to explore some of the more cultural/historical aspects of Cape Town, and in this regard, there’s nothing more relevant than Robben Island. The ferry ride was cold and choppy – at times a little scary – and an hour later we were dropped in the middle of what I’m sure will prove to be just the first among a number of humbling experiences on this trip. Our tour guide was a proud and beautiful South African woman. She was she was clearly strong yet elegant and soft-spoken. And she was intelligent. She lives on Robben Island with others who work as guides for the former-prison, now museum and historical site.
Some of the most significant of these include former prisoners, who now give tours of the cells and grounds that used to enclose them. What a strange experience that must be, to see families and foreigners strolling freely in and out of the very rooms you were limited to for so long. Walking through the very doorways that were closed for so long. Children laughing. Running. Oblivious – borderline rude – tourists snapping pictures in your face as you speak of the hardships to which you were subjected on a daily basis. I’m talking about Jama. He was imprisoned on Robben Island from 1976 to 1981. Though his time overlapped with fellow political prisoner, Nelson Mandela, Jama never met the leader – as Mandela was kept in solitary confinement during his last seven years on Robben Island. He was thought to be too charismatic, too inspiring, too intelligent – too dangerous – to be around the other prisoners. His cell was smaller than the kennels that housed the dogs kept to guard him and the others.
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| Nelson Mandela's cell |
After Robben Island (a pretty lengthy excursion, taking about 4-5 hours in all), we headed to the polar opposite of experiences in Camps Bay. A beautiful, westward facing beach town just south of Cape Town, Camps Bay has no shortage of money and people willing to spend it. We had another lovely dinner, delicious wine, but I am starting to feel as though Cape Town is a little too westernized for my taste at the moment. I’m ready for something different.
On the plus side, though, we’ve started to become friendly with Didier, the hotel manager. We’ve learned about his children (daughter, Jessica is 8; Didier Jr. is 6, and Mikey is 4 and cute as a button, he acts pretty grown up -- he didn't really want Kian to tickle him -- and he loves wrestling), his family farms in Congo (his whole family except one brother are still there and he hasn’t been back to see them since 1996), the coffee (which is dying), his career as a soccer player in Ivory Coast, and mostly about his dream to move to America for a better life for himself and for his children. Kian and I resolved that we want to help him. Miss you Didier, but we'll see you again soon!!
Some notes on Cape Town:
Stay away from Long Street!
Visit Camps Bay at sunset.
Walk around Cape Quarter/Greenpoint, north of Somerset, go to Origins Coffee Roasters and Chenin Wine Bar, and a cool looking yoga studio – Yoga Life. Sorry I didn’t make time to take a class. ....but I got back to my practice in the African bush... update coming soon.
Miss you all!!
Enjoy Guys! It sounds amazing. -Kopf
ReplyDeleteKian has a brand new glimmer in his smiling eyes - that must be from the travels. I love you guys!
ReplyDeleteAlethia
You two look absolutely vibrant. Missing you!!!
ReplyDelete